* 9th Tx anniversary trip

282This two month Warsaw, gig is starting to grow on me. I enjoy coming home to my quaint little apt, trying my hand at simplified dinner recipes for the lack of a microwave/oven, trying to communicate well enough in polish so they don't answer back in English (sigh) and the daily jaunts to the market for bread, fish and greens, hasn’t lost its appeal….yet either. With only a month to go, I know I will really miss this pro-active lifestyle.

Trip Report. This past weekend I had one of my travel dreams come true - to visit a former Russian state – Lithuania. The city was Vilnius. It lies 26 km from what has been determined the 'middle of Europe'. Sadly, along with Russia, it has the highest suicide rate in the world – could be that white night effect, as the sunset sets late/rises early.
It was also my first, lengthy road trip. All I can say about the driving here, is that is very manageable, however, I’m glad that its not me behind the wheel, trying to cover great distances, as it would take me a good generation to get from city to city. Until the Hwys are finished, most intercity roads are only two lanes, and require a swift hand and led foot to outwit. After 15-yrs of living here, my brother has definitely acquired the skill of 'outpassin slower cars' - an important talent if you wish to get anywhere - fast. Its like a real, life video game at time. Driving, doest, offer a great perspective of how the locals really live, with their small towns, km of farmland and stray cows.
This city of Vilinus doesn't seem to have been ‘discovered’ by the international tourist community yet so there’s a tremendous feeling of ‘discovery’ and with it, affordable prices. I think it will most likely become the new ‘Krakow’…..when the tourists have ravaged that city. Note to single men: there are heaps of gorgeous women here, with an observable lack in male counterparts (though I’m told that the Germans, Brits, + other desperate nations have already picked through the prime women, from looks of it though, they've left a lot behind)
At dinner one evening, we had an engaging conversation with one of our table neighbors. It was a brit that began the comical exchange and a Lithuanian who ended with a philosophical one. You gotta love those Brtis, they seem to have the nack to livens things up with their humor. The Lithuania philosopher seemed to want to know the 'state of mind of American's where I come from. I tried to describe ‘us’ as best I could, but I think he took away that American’s are ‘overworked, over scheduled and as a result ‘unhappy. Hmm, could be the cause. When comparing small nuances, I find it interesting that the highest compliment a central European can pay another is that they are ‘intelligent’…for us, it's usually ‘nice, kind, funny’,- right?. He was an obvious cynic toward his own countrymen though, who were experiencing new found sucess. He called Lithuania the ‘most corrupt’ country in the EU. "Just look around", he chided, " how else do you explain all these expensive cars “ -– it was a good thing I didn’t tell him that my brother just drove into his country in a Mercedes E series… Then there was the Australian, who left his country, to live and become a passport holding Lithuanian….. Heretic, I say!
I spent the following day, strolling through the windy, cobblestone streets, unearthing the wealth of baroque architecture, quaint squares and numerous churches (17 in all!) (all while listening to my companion, the Ipod). The food here is just as hearty as Poland’s but eating out is much cheaper –but then again, I can’t say it hurt my pocket book. My gracious and generous brother has been footing the bill for all aspects of this weekend – and eating ‘well’ seems to be a non-negotiable with him. This weekend's trip was probably the highligh of my travels so far.,

Back to the motherland. I was recently noticing some items that, as of yet, are not available or desired here, ….but seeing that I’m writing this in a ‘starbuck-esque’s coffee shop’ I imagine even the Warsawvites will find themselves Americanizing in its fullness…soon enough. Clothes washers they have, but dryers = NO. Drying takes the form of the old clothes line plus pins – whether over the bathtub, like my situation, or a few wires stretched out over the balcony. This method, however leaves the clothes coarse and rough – and without the shrinking feature of a dryer – there be no ‘skinny’ jeans for me during this trip (you ladies know what I’m talking about) Hand sanitizer, such as Purell ,is also missing. I think I utilize more of this item then anything else, made on this earth. Period. Fortunately, I brought a barrel with me. Still I’m curious as to why its not even obtainable for the willing, so I asked my doc friend, Tomek why he thought it wasn't available in Poland - his reply ‘well, we don’t have it here because the Poles would drink it’. Ok then….

* Going native

All right, 3 weeks later and I still feel like my language skills are no better than a 5th grader. I thought by now my tongue would untie itself. How did I get this bad? I mean I started speaking the mother tongue way before I could say things like 'It wasn't me'. Now I understand why I was loosing about 2 students a week when I taught Polish 101 - its an impossible language. My greatest problem is the grammar. Unlike English, all your nouns are gender specific which are assigned to their adjectives – so one has to learn each noun’s gender and speak appropriately. Fat chance I’m ever going to learn how to write, though fortunately a 5th grader can read, and figure out the convoluted Warsaw train system and find the right train platform.
For those of impatient temperament, I can tell that my attempts to express myself are tolerated with a great deal of shortness, fortunately there are many people that are patient with me and enable me to at least attempt to speak at length - thus getting the practice I desperately need. I’d say I can understand about 80% of what is spoken, but speak at about 60% level.
Trip Reports: Well, I finally had a chance to leave the concrete jungle last Sunday on a sightseeing excursion. My brother George, Edyta and I drove to two, medieval villages. The first was Sandomeirz, a well preserved Gothic village. It was like a experiencing a real life Renaissance festival equipped with colorful guards and princesses sporting their wares. There was a Gothic cellar where we got to pretend, in genuine dress, to be warriors and wenches. I was shocked to see the various, sharp spears available our various Fuji moments. When I asked the young warrior manning the cash register , if anyone has been accidentally speared by a tourist , he said ‘that they can’t stack the bodies fast enough in these cellars’
The last stop was to a popular riverside gothic village, called Kazimierz. This village is extremely popular for day trippers and motorcyclists, especially the loud harly kind. .
I took a long weekend to visit with my long time friend, Tomek, in Lublin,who I’d met in Australia way back in 1990. The old town of Lublin was home once to a large Jewish community and synagogue. Its historic building, fortunately, were not destroyed by the war, but time has left its mark – and its all in the process of refurbishment. On Sat evening Tomek took me to a Jewish restaurant, where a lively band played authetic music. Who ever said Jewish music was mournful and sad, needs to see this group, live. It was heaps of fun. Other than attending a 40th b'day dinner party, visiting the old town, we just took it easy, spending time at a park and with his mum. Unfortunately, most of Tomek’s days and some nights at 2 area hospitals, diagnosing and looking after patients, has left him more than a little weary, so there were a few cat naps in between (or just plain pasted out, sitting naps too). As always, the generous hospitality of Tomek and his mum was much appreciated.
A 2 ½ hr train ride and short tram stop later, I’m back at the bloc, back to the city grind in my little bachelor pad, looking forward to this weekend’s road trip…

* 16/22 Grzybowska

Finally, a balmy, cloudless evening in Warsaw – looks like time to crack open the laptop and write a few words regarding my first two weeks here. (Yes, its been 2 full wks already and not a word from Liz, until now) Unfortunately, the lack of good weather and motivation has plagued me.
I officially moved into 16/22 Grzybowska 1115 on the 3rd of July. My surrounding were just what I’d hoped for - merely ½ block from the thriving market (Hala Mirowska) and the major thoroughfare – Jana Pawala II (He may have left this earth, but his memory is resurrected throughout Warsaw and Poland) My studio apartment (or the literal Polish to English translation = bachelor pad) appears like it was especially designed for me – compact, sunset facing with bathtub and washer (dryers appear to be less then rare in Poland), painted in cheery yellow. The quaint apt is housed in one of the many charm-less, gray, rectangular shaped configurations that the communist thought was an advancement in housing large number unhappy people. They call them bloc - like communist bloc. A few people have told me that most assuredly my small space probably housed a familty of 3 or 4 for many years.
My favorite pastime is the daily trip to the market at Hala Mirowska. The first week it was done like a genuine European – under an angry sky and umbrella. I’m certain if it weren’t such a novelty I would think it a fairly tedious chore by now. The objective of selecting your own produce (saying things like ‘no, not that one, its bruised), waiting in line to select the most delicious looking bread, and then lugging it all back to the 11th floor is somehow very appealing to me. My current favorite cusines: bread, smoked fish, nectarines and peaches.
Life here is probably like any other city in Europe. City dwellers use the numerous red buses and trams, which efficiently transport them from point A to Z, with several stops along the alphabet. The dress is not as high fashion as you would find it cities like Rome or Paris, but one thing is consistentm 80’s hair is back and chicks love their heels. Unfortunately, smoking is also a big fashion statement so my head is constantly in the smoke fog.
There is nothing one can't get here and everone SMS (text messages) or listening to an Ipode. I remember the day when people lined up for items around the block, for hours and when you asked the last person in line what exactly they were waiting for, they would say ‘well, I hear that there are socks at the end of this line”. Hmm, the idea of standing in line for hours for the probability of something sounds, well, foolish, but that was the way, back then. Well, Poland and its economy has come quiet the distance since then. Products of all shapes and sizes are available by credit card and no line.
Ok, on to those dear Poles, I call 'my people'. Perhaps its a general truism or newflash, but Poles are not the friendliest of countrymen (or perhaps I should just reference the Warsawvites). They aren't in the habit of smiling for no reason or striking up polite conversation with strangers. Although I have been here many times before, it seems to be an observation I just happened upon. Perhaps being in one place for an extended prior of time affords some more detailed and unique perspectives. A caveat here: Even though strangers themselves may not be accepted with welcoming glances, being familiar with someone changes the landscape. They do make faithful and loyal friends. Here, if you know someone, who knows someone, you have a friend and someone to call in a moment of need or even place to stay. They are very generous with what they have. The problem for me, is actually gettting to that point of familiarity. Fortunately, I have my brother, his girlfriend Edyta & some extended family in this area and a few contact numbers, so that should be a good start eh.
I'll continue my tales another day. till then, make sure to drop me a note and keep me updated. I can also receive text messages or phone calls on my local number at: 48-662-317-661. Email: Lizym@aol.com (I'm also a Skype.com member now: LizyMe)